As my big brother, Rich, stared at me from across the table,
I could sense his concern by the way he was looking at me. “You’ve really got
to spend time outside of your bubble, little brother… I fear that working too
much on those books is going to make you a nerd”, he sarcastically judged through a mouthful of fries. “I’ve got to do what I’ve got to do, my man”, I
replied as I took a bite of my burger. After a short conversation about where I
stood with the weekly goals, Rich returned to his choice topic of the day. “Listen,
my man, while I was working on the mail-drop stuff for the Appalachian Trail, I
came across some information on the Florida Trail. The trail looks cool and
it’s over a thousand miles long”, he said while continuing to stare at me.
“Hahaha… the Florida Trail? Rich, I’m a mountain boy, not a beach guy”, I stubbornly
replied. “Bro, I’m not saying that you have to be a beach guy… all I’m saying
is, it’s right here in your backyard”, he firmly stated. Sensing his
commitment to the topic, I quickly assured him that I would consider it… which
I had no intentions of doing so. “The Florida Trail?”, I questioned in my mind.
“Sounds boring”, I quickly convinced myself. Knowing that I was blowing him
off, he located a single folder labeled ‘Florida Trail’ and slid it across the
table as he concluded the conversation. “Listen, all I am saying is, look at
what I’ve found and think about it… alright?” Well, that day passed and so did
quite-a-few more.
Then, in early March of 2015, Mom and I decided that my next
speed record should be the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive. Knowing that I
needed to get into peak shape after spending the winter working on my next
book, we looked at our options. My idea was to winter hike a couple of hundred
miles along the Appalachian Trail. It would be cold, but we already had done our
research. “Boom! No planning needed!”, I eagerly stated. My mother always
seeing the big picture said, “Nope. You’re not only going to have to train your
body, but you have to figure out what works and what doesn’t work in relation
to going fast over a distance that long.” And after a short pause, she frickin said it, “How about the
Florida Trail?” Not wanting to give-up on the idea of hiking for a couple weeks
on the AT, I immediately protested. But as Mom calmly overcame every objection
I threw her way, it quickly became clear that she was right. Thirty-six
hours later, on March 8th of 2015, I started southbound from the
Rice Creek Trailhead. Quickly becoming apparent that the trail harbored
obstacles unlike any I had faced in southern Appalachia, I was drawn to the
difficulty of the new experience but not the surroundings… not yet. Comparing it to my
choice terrain in western North Carolina, I blinded myself from its unique
beauty. After eighteen days, Mom picked me up just north of Moore Haven and, at
that time, I was sure that was the end of the Florida Trail for me. The
prospect of ever again slogging through the mud for miles, fighting off swarms
of mosquitoes, and roasting beneath the blistering rays of the sun… all the
while with sand in every possible crevasse, was an experience comparable to
Ralphie wearing the bunny suit in the Christmas Story… nooo thank you. But, I
guess Jimmy Chin says it best, “The greatest hikers and climbers are the ones
with the shortest memories.” Haha... wise words.
After returning home from setting the Fastest Known Time for the
Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive, I knew my gear-selection needed work. That
summer, on three different occasions, I went to Ocala National Forest and did
laps along the Florida Trail between Rodman’s Dam and Clearwater. It was during
that time that I really started to appreciate the new terrain.
Upon returning home in late August from mapping the mountain section of the
Mountains-to-Sea Trail, I went back to work writing guidebooks.
Then, in late October or early November, I just had one of those days where the
walls in my office were closing in. Knowing that I needed to get out of the
house, Mom and I decided to drive to Gainesville and visit the Florida Trail
Association’s headquarters. By then, I had figured I would thru-hike the
Florida Trail at some point but had no actual plans... and certainly not before
completing the Appalachian Trail. The people there were nice but yielded no real
information beyond directing me to their selection of trail-data for sale. While
there, I questioned the gentleman about the current speed record. Not knowing
anything about speed records, the conversation quickly moved on. As Mom and I
got into the car to leave the office, we decided to investigate the Fastest
Known Time record when we got back to Jacksonville. Upon viewing the FKT board,
I was shocked that the record time was thirty days with an average daily mileage count of just over 36 miles. "What?" And upon even more investigating, I was even more shocked
that the FT had yet to see a successful Yo-Yo. Haha... I can still remember saying to Mom, "Florida is flat! How hard could it be? I'm the creator of the toughest hiking circuit east of the Rockies for crying out loud... this is going to be a snap!!" Looking back on it now, I should have known something was up. But, within an hour of learning those
two facts, we were in front of the white boards working on the logistics. Our plan was to complete the first
Yo-Yo of the Florida National Scenic Trail and to take-down the speed record while
on my southbound thru-hike… simple, right? At that point, I had already hiked
nearly the entire trail south of Palatka. So, we decided that I would, again,
start along SR-100 and hike the six hundred miles to the northern terminus to
familiarize myself with the trail before starting my speed bid.
The Yo-Yo:
- On December 12th of 2015 at 4:44pm EST, I started my Yo-Yo and headed northbound from SR-100, located just outside of Palatka.
- On January 15th of 2016 at 10:am EST, I started my southbound thru-hike (speed record attempt #1).
- On January 30th of 2016 at 1:22pm EST, I abandoned my southbound speed attempt due to statewide flooding but continued my thru-hike with the plan of going for the speed record again once headed northbound.
- On March 2nd of 2016 at 1:01pm EST, I completed my southbound thru-hike.
- On March 5thof 2016 at 7:am EST, I started my northbound thru-hike (speed record attempt #2)
- On March 18th of 2016 at 1:23pm EST, I arrived at SR-100 and completed the first Yo-Yo of the Florida National Scenic Trail.
- On March 29th of 2016 at 2:23pm EST, I abandoned my northbound speed attempt due to flooding in Bradwell Bay but continued my thru-hike with the plan of establishing a new variation along the gulf coast.
- On April 7th of 2016 at 10:53am, I completed my northbound thru-hike and journey.
In total, I hiked 2992.77 miles in
116 days, 18 hours and 9 minutes, with the Yo-Yo requiring 96 days, 20 hours
and 39 minutes.
Leaning up against the front wall of Fort Pickens, I was
overjoyed. I had completed the first Yo-Yo of the Florida National Scenic Trail
and had hiked 3,000 miles… all during the second wettest season in two decades. My achievement felt great, but missing the record still burned regardless of the reason.
The summer of 2016 went by and I watched my chances of
another speed attempt slowly die with each hurricane that passed through
Florida. Wanting to see the trail condition firsthand, I hiked eighty miles of
the trail while walking from my home in Jacksonville to the Florida Trail Association’s
statewide conference in Deland. Unfortunately, my fears were confirmed. There
were so many trees down through Ocala, it took me an additional day to get to
Deland. After speaking at the conference, I questioned everyone I could about
the condition of the trail in their section. Feeling hopeful, I joined the
Black Bear Chapter’s work party scheduled for the following ten days. By the
end of the week and a half, the trail through Ocala looked amazing! Continuing
to see other parties post their stewardship in the following weeks, I readied
for another go at the beast.
The Fastest Known Time:
Style: Self-supported. To resupply through my own efforts, and to never accept supplies, gifts or support of any kind. Though it was my right to do so, I left no pre-placed supplies, nor did I send out any mail drops.
Route and Schedule: I used my same 24-day schedule from the
2015/16 season with the exception of routing through Keystone Heights along
the Palatka/Lake Butler Trail and the road-walk between White Springs and
Randy Madison’s property, both-of-which promoted by the Florida Trail Association as official Florida Trail thru-routes.
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| The legend on an official Florida Trail Association map personally obtained through the FTA. |
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| The route from White Springs to the opposite side of Randy Madison's property. |
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| The northern half of the alternate route via the Palatka/Lake Butler State Trail. |
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| The southern half of the alternate route via the Palatka/Lake Butler State Trail. |
Social-media and blogging while in route: That was strictly out of the question. Why? One, to allow no distractions. If the individual is not eating, sleeping or moving forward, that person is wasting time. Two, personal safety.
GPS and SPOT Device: I utilized both a Garman 62sc and SPOT
while in route. Though I ran a continuous track during the 2015/16 season, I
opted to minimize the weight and cost of the unit’s batteries by logging the
completion of each day with a waypoint. All waypoint’s are provided with their coinciding days.
Dec. 20/21, 2016: Day’s mileage – 58.6
After my normal pre-game regiment, I started my third Florida
Trail speed record attempt on December 20th at 2:pm EST from the new
Florida Trail kiosk at Fort Pickens. I pushed almost continuously to the store
in Harold where I finished my first day. Before leaving the store, I had already started
to feel the heat of chafing in my groin region.
Dec. 21/22, 2016: Day’s mileage – 33.5
By the time I arrived at Crestview, I had a full-on case of
chafing. Because of the situation, I opted to sacrifice some time to clean and
medicate the area before the problem got worse. After a prolonged rest, however,
the situation wasn’t any better as I finished my second day at JR Walton Pond.
Dec. 22/23, 2016: Day’s mileage – 29.4
The chafing was intense all day. From experience, if treated
properly, chafing is only a two-day event. So, with that in mind, I continued
to keep the area clean, dry and medicated. Again, like the second day, I
decided that it was more productive to rest and allow the area to heal rather
than proceed at a slower pace and potentially prolong the condition. My
intention was to stop at Blount’s Creek and clean the affected area. However, I
finished my third day a mile short at the kiosk warning hikers that Demon
Bridge was out.
Dec. 23/24, 2016: Day’s mileage – 63.5
Upon getting started, the troubled area was tender but
quickly subsided as I started moving. Now behind schedule, I planned to continue
through the day without pause. Upon arrival at Blount's Creek, the ford was barely crotch deep. While passing through the Lafayette Creek area in
the dark, I was overjoyed to see that the shin-deep mud from last season was
dry-as-a-bone. After passing up a shower at Sand Pond Campground, I resupplying at the gas station on the corner of SR-20 and SR-77 around
mid-morning. I finished my fourth day just north of Little Porter Campsite and felt great.
Dec. 24/25, 2016: Day’s mileage – 39.6
Continuing into the next twenty-four-hour period, I
completed Econfina before sleeping in the bushes across from a house along
Scott Road that yielded a beautiful display of Christmas lights. Funny Story:
Whenever I push for prolonged periods, I typically listen to loud music to stimulate
my mind against the monotony of continuously processing the next ten feet. So,
as I bedded down across from the wonderful show of decorative lights, I removed
my headset to a dog barking at me from across the street. “Haha… well, dang it…
so much for a peaceful evening,” I mumbled as I drifted off. After sleeping for
a couple hours, I awoke a few minutes before my alarm sprung to life… and what
did I hear? The dog still barking. Haha… I couldn’t believe it. Quickly gearing-up, I pushed on with the goal of a cup of coffee and orange juice at Shelton's Store. Shelton's was closed but I stopped at the gas station at the corner of SR-275 and SR-71. After a quick snack, I finished my fifth day just north of Blountstown city limits.
Dec. 25/26, 2016: Day’s mileage – 42.3
Once in Blountstown, I resupplied enough to eat three good
meals (Blountstown, Camel Lake and one more) and then grabbed just a few snacks so to keep my
pack light through Apalachicola. Once through Blountstown, I
continued to Camel Lake Campground where I showered, ate and slept. Waking
early, I finished my sixth day taking a nap alongside a dirt road east of the Vilas Campsite.
Dec. 26/27, 2016: Day’s mileage – 49.2
Continuing after a short rest, my objective was to push
through Apalachicola before stopping. Though the trail was not maintained, the lack
of swamp water this season made advancing a breeze. Upon passing through a dry
Bradwell Bay, it was hard to believe that it was the same place that thwarted
my second speed record attempt just months earlier. After finishing
Apalachicola, I continued along the reroute around the Marshy Point area and
then finished my seventh day napping where the trail picks back up.
Dec. 27/28, 2016: Day’s mileage – 27
After sleeping, I pushed on to Saint Marks. There, I
resupplied and ate a belly full of food. Haha… which, for the
record, is a terrible idea if pushing hard afterward. But, I knew that Shell
Island was just a few miles away and that they wouldn’t be open until the
morning. Upon reaching Shell Island, I quickly took a shower and slept on the
office’s front porch. I awoke early to the scrambling of fisherman loading
their boats. Wanting to eat right away, I sat-up to grab my breakfast. Upon
positioning myself upright, I could immediately see the thick blanket of fog
under the lights in the parking lot… not good. The folks at Shell Island are
amazing at getting hikers across the St. Marks River at the snap of a finger,
but I knew that they weren’t going out in this. All I could hope for was that
the fog would quickly burn off. So, I finished my breakfast, packed up my gear,
washed-up, and waited patiently. Before long, Bucky and Carl rolled up and we
hung out on the porch until the fog lifted around mid-morning. It was great
seeing them and we definitely had a blast catching-up. After one of their employees dropped me off on the
opposite side of the St. Marks River, I finished my eighth day quickly eating lunch at
the Ring Levee Campsite.
Dec. 28/29, 2016: Day’s mileage – 51.6
After finishing the St. Marks area, I stopped at JR’s Store and
talked to JR for about twenty minutes while resting and lightly resupplying. As I walked out
of his store, I knew that I should have grabbed more food. Not wanting to carry
any more than I had to, I kept moving. I pushed into the night and napped after
passing through the Aucilla area. Once along the road and felling fresh, I turned it up and
finished my ninth day east of US-221… and felt depleted.
Dec. 29/30, 2016: Day’s mileage – 27.7
Not wanting to stop until Madison, I kept going. I was doing
alright until a fifteen minute, cold rainstorm with high winds hit me just
before reaching SR-14. Shortly after the rain, the effects of my low blood
sugar took hold… and I had no food to reverse the condition. In situations like
that, I typically push harder… and so I did. Unfortunately, my spurt was
short-lived and only aided in my plummet. The last few miles into Madison were
slow-going but a phone call with Mom kept me motivated. Upon reaching town, I grabbed
food and a hotel room. Once in the room, I ate while showering and then
promptly went to sleep for a full night’s rest on a soft bed. The next morning,
I was a new man. After resupplying and purchasing an additional long-sleeve layer
from a truck stop in preparation for the next day’s cold-snap, I hit the road
and finished my tenth day eating along Winquepin Street.
Dec. 30/31, 2016: Day’s mileage – 38.2
While nearing Stroud Cemetery, a truck pulled up with a
smiling, familiar face… it was Bill Walker! Well known for being an amazing
steward of the Suwanee and for starting the Florida Hiking Syndicate, Bill and
son jumped out of the truck and gave me a huge hug… it felt great to see a pal.
After gabbing for a bit, we parted ways and I continued my journey. The evening
brought the cold and I stopped to nap just before reaching Holton Creek. After
turning off my alarm in a sleepy, cold morning haze, I was startled
to see daylight as I re-awoke. “F***! Well, no shower at Holton!” I barked as I
jumped out of bed in disgust. Reaching Holton River Camp shortly thereafter, I
briefly warmed up in one of the heated restrooms for a few minutes while eating
and charging my phone. Upon exiting, I quickly gabbed with the camp host and a large
group of hikers heading northbound. After passing through the camp three times
the previous season, I had become very good friends with the then camp hosts,
Gary and Joyce Gabriel. As I passed the location where they would have been set
up, my heart sunk a little missing my pals. Now with a full belly and two
back-to-back full night’s sleep, I sped off for the gas station near Suwanee
Springs. Upon arrival, I resupplied and gave the owner my one-day-old jacket
since the forecast called for warmer temperatures. There, I sat and finished my
eleventh day on the bench in front of the store while devouring calories and
talking to Mom on the phone.
Dec. 31 / Jan. 1, 2017: Day’s mileage – 43.7
Finishing the Suwanee before stopping, I slept just outside
of White Springs. Arriving at the gas station in town around 6:am, I walked in
and was immediately greeted with, “Well, look at what the cat dragged in!”
Funny Story: I resupplied at that gas station all three times during my 2015/16
season and that lady was always there! Day or night, she was working. So, while
charging my phone, I brought her up-to-speed on last season’s results and this
season’s intentions. Shaking her head, she said, “Haha… whatever tap you
drinkin’ from… stop.” After resupplying and getting another hug from her, I was
off. After making quick work of the road section around Randy Madison's property, I entered Osceola. Funny Story: Before retiring last year, Randy's printing company actually produced all of my books. I chose his company because of their professionalism and, more over, because Randy was a serious hiker. I can remember him talking about the Florida Trail and inviting me on hikes. Little did I know then the impact I would have on the trail that he would go on and on about. Funny how God works. The day in Osceola was amazing and I saw the only two bears of my trip. Finishing my twelfth day at Turkey Run
Trailhead, I felt great.
Jan. 1/2, 2017: Day’s mileage – 41.1
Continuing to the Olustee Trailhead, I paused to plug-in my
phone, hydrate and sleep. Arriving at Lake Butler the following morning, I was
very excited to be at the halfway point. "Hurray!" As I approached the grocery
store, I remember joking, “Haha… No half-gallon-challenge for me this year! Can’t
risk it.” Reaching the deli, I ordered my usual two hot plates. Funny Story: …
and let’s freeze frame for a second. I love hiking… it is literally my entire
existence. I love the Florida Trail… it has consumed my life for the last two
years. While in the grocery store, the folks remembered me from the previous season and
we carried on like teenage kids! So, as I walked toward the picnic table to the
right of the store with my two hotplates… I felt like a rock star. I happily
posted-up at the table that is positioned directly under a big tree to enjoy my
feast. I took off my gear, sat down, opened the first meal… and while in the
process of opening the second container, a bird crapped directly into the
mashed potatoes of my first meal. Hahaha… I remember looking up at the sky without
pause and saying, “Well, Jesus, you sure have a way of keeping a guy humble.”
Hahaha… and even better, as I’m sure you’ve guessed, I promptly spooned out
the coagulated mess of green and white ooze and ate the rest. After finishing
my meal, I pressed on and ended my thirteenth day on the dirt road just before reconnecting
with the Palatka/Lake Butler Trail after the reroute along SR-100.
Jan. 2/3, 2017: Day’s mileage – 36.5
Upon reconnecting with the Palatka/Lake Butler Trail, I laid
everything out and took a nap under the blissful rays of the afternoon sun.
Continuing just before dark, I reached Keystone Heights before stopping to sleep.
Eager to meet-up with Mom near Rice Creek, I started early. As the dawn
approached, thunder and flashes in the distance gave away the approaching
storm. Trying to keep my feet healthy, I prayed for a shelter from the weather.
As soon… I mean, as soon as the first drops began to fall, I passed an outside
bathroom near the entrance to a soccer field. “Aaaamazing,” I said with
thankfulness. After eating and hydrating, I slept under the exterior overhang
until the rain stopped. Once the storm passed, I continued and finish my
fourteenth day at Carraway Road.
Jan. 3/4, 2017: Day’s mileage – 36.8
From Carraway Road, I continued for about a mile and then
connected with SR-100 to meet Mom. Seeing her that day was better than any
triumphant moment of a lifetime... without a doubt. Now before you ask, Mom
wouldn’t give me a smile if it went against a self-supported effort. So, she
gave me no food, water, equipment or assisted me in any way… “True to the trail” is our motto. While opening Christmas presents on the side of the road and seeing her smile, hearing her voice,
feeling her pride… … something in me fired red hot. As I reentered the woods
after watching her drive-off, I knew what I had to do. “Screw sleep! Screw
tired! Screw everything!! I am not just going to set the speed record this year, I'm
going to f***ing murder it! Hurrah!” I had a new-found energy. Throughout that
night and next day, I alternated back and forth between emotionally prideful and
a raging Spartan. I was no longer going to just compete… I was going to
dominate. Upon reaching Buckman's Lock after closing hours, I stopped and slept. The following day, I continued on and finished my fifteenth day at the 88 Store where I ate, hydrated,
quickly showered, and slept.
Jan. 4/5, 2017: Day’s mileage – 47.8
Upon leaving the store after dark, I was a man on fire. I pushed all night and into the next day, only pausing
for water and a rest at Hidden Pond and the pump south of Farles Prairie. Once south of
the pump, I passed a timber crew chopping trees right up to the trail with a
few directly on. Upon reaching the Alexander Springs area, the trail was packed with hikers. Once I arrived at a dirt road east of Alexander Springs, I
stopped to sleep and finished my sixteenth day.
Jan. 5/6, 2017: Day’s mileage – 54.9
I believe that all high achievers wear their failures heavy
upon their chest as a reminder of the taste. During my early to mid-20’s, I
worked for Tingen Construction in Raleigh, North Carolina. There, the owners,
Dan and Bill Tingen, treated me like their own… always having time… always having
patience. I can remember so vividly the day they gave me the option of resigning
due to my actions in relation to addiction. Since that day, that guilt has
never left me. And so, during every single speed record attempt, I’ve always
had the same reoccurring nightmare where I am working for Tingen and that I am
late to be somewhere… and this would be the first time during that bid where I
would shock awake from that dream. “Phil” Bill’s voice echoed as I jarred
violently awake. Smacking my face, I hopped up and was moving forward within two minutes. After finishing Ocala, I passed up a shower at Clearwater, resupplied
in Paisley and then kept moving. Upon nearing the southeastern side of the Boy
Scout property, I smelled brush-fire smoke. Once along Maggie Jones Road, the
entire property to the left was burning. Thick smoke choked me for the entire
length of the road. Upon reaching Wildflower Way, I passed the home of Larry,
Gerri and Zac Cook. Last season, they invited me in their home to charge my
phone, and their son, Zac, gave me a bible that I very much cherish. While out
front, I stopped to embrace the night with arms wide open and to pray in thanks
for being so blessed. While praying, in that exact moment, one light breeze
stirred the night. “Our Holy Father is with me,” I
silently proclaimed. As I redirected my attention to the road ahead, my jaw
tightened and my muscles flexed… “I am a warrior of God.” While along the
path through Sanford, I carried no food or water. Instead, I stopped along the way whenever I was in need. After resupplying at the Publix in Oviedo, I finished my seventeenth day alongside the Flagler Rail
Trail Bridge. There, I washed-up, took care of my feet, and slept.
No GPS data was acquired for this day
Jan. 6/7, 2017: Day’s mileage – 52.7
Shocked awake again, I was quickly off. That evening, a storm with lightning brought the cold. Stopping
near Christmas, Florida, I ate and attempted to sleep. I was cold and wet, so after a nap, I continued on. I was so thankful for the dawn. Everything was going well
until walking along SR-520. Once along the flat tread, I turned on the autopilot
and stopped thinking of my next step. Once nearing Nova Road, I started zoning out…
way out. Even with the noise of the passing traffic, I would tunnel-vision-out and
sleepwalk, always regaining consciousness with my
eyes still wide-open and feet still moving. Upon reaching the creek along Nova Road, another rainstorm with cold winds hit. Even though I was quickly soaked to
the bone, the cold rain woke me right up… like wide awake. Continuing through the storm, I
finished my eighteenth day along Deer Park Road just south of Nova Road.
Jan. 7/8, 2017: Day’s mileage – 32.4
At that point, I was wide awake but the head-games were in
full swing. White silhouettes of people in the corners of my vision would repeatedly snatch my attention. My brain screamed for me to stop, but with fences on both sides and only two bushes in twelve miles, I marched forward. Fun Fact: During Hell Week, Navy Seal instructors keep the candidates awake and active for five days. During that time, the men are only allowed four hours of sleep, which is the minimal amount of sleep a human body requires within that time-frame before shutting down and potentially dying. While in my haze, and knowing that fact, I remember keeping my morale high by laughing at my condition and repeating "If a Seal can do it, so can I." Shortly into the day, I past my first thru-hiker. “Hey!”, I yelled.
Quickly walking over to her, I probably looked and talked like a crazy person. I
remember feeling so happy to talk to such a friendly soul. After a quick chat and a high five,
we continued our journeys. Upon reaching the Bull Creek Trailhead along US-192, I took about
four steps into the forest, dropped my gear and slept… hard. Waking up before
the dawn, the temperature and wind was bitter cold. I immediately got up and started
walking so I could warm up. Nearing Forever Florida, I crossed a bridge where I had walked up on a dead twelve gator the previous season. Momentarily pausing at what was left of the corpse, I reflected on how far I had come since that day. I finished my nineteenth day eating two meals at
Forever Florida.
Jan. 8/9, 2017: Day’s mileage – 40.3
Before leaving Forever Florida, I stopped by Shawn and Emily
Hansen’s house for a hug… which I really needed. “Bro!”, Shawn joyfully spouted
with a huge smile as he opened the door. Immediately giving me a big hug, Emily
was eagerly next in line. They offered for me to come in and sit, but I knew I had
to keep moving. Saying that I had just come by for a quick hug, they both continued
to embrace me with hugs, pats and high fives. “Love you, Bro! You’ve got this,
Concrete!!” Their encouragement was heart felt. After leaving, I quickly passed
a spot where, last season, I met Sandi Conitz… a super great friend. I was
flooded with emotion. I felt so blessed to have so many people that love and
believe in me. Upon reaching Three Lakes, I stopped to nap in the bushes at the
trailhead alongside CR-523. Crazy Story: I laid down just on the other side of the first
palmetto cluster on the far side of the parking lot. Now, it was dark and I was
tired when I arrived. But after napping, I walked the fifteen feet back to the
parking lot and, to my surprise, there was a fresh bird with its head chewed
off just feet from where I was sleeping… obviously, the doings of a bobcat. Did
I pass it on the way in? I could have, but don’t think so. Continuing unfazed, I pushed on through the night and next day and reached Westgate around late morning. While there, I resupplied, ate some pizza, and call Missy at the lock. Pushing on,
I finished my twentieth day just north of the Kicco Trailhead.
Jan. 9/10, 2017: Day’s mileage – 29.2
Seeing Missy flash her light as I approached the lock just sent joy through my heart. Seeing Missy and Steve was amazing! We hung out and
gabbed for a while as I ate more pizza from Westgate and drank energy drinks. "I knew you could do it, Phil! This is your year, Brother!", they chanted as I got ready to go. After hugs and high fives, I continued my journey with a caffeine buzz… which
didn’t last long. About six miles later, I went from fast forward to dead to
the world. At that point, I knew I needed a good night’s sleep. So, I laid down
without setting my alarm… and I slept hard. As I awoke the next morning to a gentle rain
falling, I felt great. Up and moving, I quickly arrived at the Kissimmee Prairie Campground. There, I talked to the Forest Service ladies on the porch while drinking an energy drink. During the conversation, they informed me that the Forest
Service had just abandoned an attempt to prescribe burn exactly where I was
headed because of the rain. “Holy Cow! I came this far and I could have been
shut out by a prescribed burn!” Quickly moving on, along the dirt road, I
passed the fire crew returning to the ranger station. I finished my
twenty-first day washing my feet atop a dilapidated bridge that spans a swampy
area.
Jan. 10/11, 2017: Day’s mileage – 56
Continuing through Kissimmee, I stopped off and briefly
spoke with a thru-hiker camping at Starvation Slough Campsite. There, he told
me about the closure at the intersection of the Kissimmee River and Lake O…
which started last year without any heads-up to thru-hikers. He informed me
that the reroute was along SR-70 and US-441 through the town of Okeechobee. After a
high five and good luck, I pushed on. Quickly arriving at the trailhead, I saw
a campfire and called out, “Hey, Hey! Do you mind if I warm up for a minute?” I
questioned as I approached. “Sure thing!”, the group yelled back. They were a
group of military folks that had intended to go fishing that day but were forced to
abandon their plan upon finding out that the Kissimmee boat dock was closed.
They were an awesome group and I moved on after a short rest. Shortly
thereafter, they drove by me and honked and cheered… I was really feeling
great. Upon passing through the swamp south of Basinger, I was again shocked at
how dry things were this season. After passing a tent at the stile, I
continued toward the Chandler area. After briefly getting turned around in the Yates Marsh area, I reached SR-70 at first light. Turning left, I reached Okeechobee around mid-morning. After turning right on US-441, I lightly resupplied at Wal-Mart and then continued to the dike. I finished my twenty-second day just
north of the Kissimmee River and Lake O intersection.
Jan. 11/12, 2017: Day’s mileage – 33.9
Continuing into the night, I slept on the dike just north of Harney Pond Canal. The next morning, I stopped at the gas station there to eat. The rest of the day required a lot of effort. I
realized that I had to eat more. I continued along the SR-78 reroute around the closed dike to Moore Haven. Upon reaching Moore Haven, I finished my
twenty-third day at Beck’s gas station eating a sub. While resting, I planned my next move. Last season, the US Army Corps of Engineers had a major reconstruction project on the
dike near Clewiston. With so many sections of the dike now closed, and knowing that the trail was closed at the Kissimmee
River and Lake O intersection this season… without a route
change on the Florida Trail interactive map, I opted to continue along US-27 into
Clewiston instead of taking the chance of having to illegally trespass or backtrack. Though following US-27 would be longer, the route was a safer bet.
Jan. 12/13, 2017: Day’s mileage – 29.6
Just before US-27 turns east toward Clewiston, I laid down in
some bushes next to an electrical station. While there, I heard a vehicle
pullover on the side of the road. Hanging out for another fifteen minutes, I
continued my journey and immediately encountered a gentleman standing with a
detached trailer. Upon asking him if he needed to use my phone, he asked to where
I was walking. I quickly explained my grand plan, and to my great surprise, he
said, “Really! Jim Kern is a long-time friend of mine.” Haha… how the Lord
works. He called one of Jim’s sons and I had the great privilege of speaking to
him for a few minutes. After the chance encounter and knowing that I only had
about a hundred miles to the southern terminus, my morale was through the roof!
Once I arrived in Clewiston, I got a hotel room and resupplied at Wal-Mart.
After the best night’s sleep of my life, I continued the next morning and passed two section thru-hikers just after leaving Clewiston. Upon reaching John Stretch Park, I
hydrated and quickly moved on. Before finishing my twenty-fourth day west of
the Miami Canal, I passed four thru-hikers.
Jan. 13/14, 2017: Day’s mileage – 40.1
Along the box notch north of CR-835, I briefly spoke to two thru-hikers
and encountered a beautiful Pygmy Rattlesnake. South of CR-835, I passed two more
thru-hikers in their tent just as the darkness fell... high five, Timeless! About halfway between CR-835
and Deerfence Canal, I stopped to sleep. I passed the large building along
Deerfence Canal just before dawn and then a late sleeper still in their tent shortly thereafter. After getting soaked in a quick rainstorm while passing the rodeo arena, I finished my twenty-fifth day at the Big
Cypress Landing Store while eating a meal and talking to the cashier that
remembered me from the previous season.
Jan. 14/15, 2017: Day’s mileage – 28.1
After the huge meal, I proceeded for a few more miles and
then napped near the West Feeder Canal. After a short rest, I continued to Alligator Alley where I then stopped at the Big Cypress Trailhead to sleep before taking on the mud and water. At dawn, I proceeded through the
mud and paused to eat at Ivy Camp where I encountered a small Eagle Scout
group. I gabbed with the leader, Jason Bacon, while stuffing my face and then was off again.
About a half a mile before reaching the barbwire fence, the terrain dried out
nicely… maybe too nice. I had luckily drank my fill and topped-off my Nalgene
bottle just before reaching dry land. Even though the water level was very low
through the first section, I was sure that there would be water sources along
the last section… right? Once along the dry terrain, I finished my twenty-sixth
day beating the sand out of my shoes just north of Thirteen Mile Camp.
Jan. 15, 2017: Day’s mileage – 18.3
Pausing at Thirteen Mile Camp, I ate and then drank more
than half of my water. Continuing through the sawgrass fields, the area was dry
as a bone... and hot. Just after removing my headphones, I rounded a bush and heard a
tussle. Cautiously peering around the bend, I saw the hind-quarters of a
six-foot-long gator. “Out here? really?” He quickly slid into a very small hole
in the limestone that yielded a small amount of water. Knowing that I should
fill up on water, I thought about refilling there but decided to find a safer
source. Taking a break in the shade south of Thirteen Mile Camp, I closed
my eyes for just a moment and passed right out. Coming to a short time later, I
jumped up and kept moving. Continuing into the night, I began to smell a brush-fire.
Just before reaching Ten Mile Camp, I walked right into a prescribed burn. I
immediately replace my headlamp’s batteries and kept moving. With a scorched
trail, thick smoke hiding the next blaze, and down to my last sip of water, the
rain started. “Come on,” I belted. Quickly refocusing on maintaining a high level
of morale, I began singing, “I’m a little tea pot…” I guess God took mercy on
me because the rain stopped a short time later. I exited the burn just before
reaching Seven Mile Camp. I was so thirsty by the time I reached the camp, I attempted to ring out my rain soaked shirt into my Nalgene bottle. What
little came out wasn’t even brown… it was black. “No thank you,” I chuckled as
I poured it out. Just before reaching the southern intersection of the Blue
Loop Trail, I came across a small, murky puddle located in a spot that was waist deep
last season. “Oh, praise you, Lord,” I said in desperation. As I sucked down a
liter and a half through my Life Straw, I could feel my energy come back. Knowing
that I was only an hour from the Oasis Ranger Station, I continued with only a
sip of water in my Nalgene. Seeing the lights of the ranger station in the
distance brought so many emotions. As I reached the open path alongside the fence
before the bend, I paused for a moment to pray in thanks. Reaching the stone
was amazing… I had finally done it. At the finish line, I prayed, called Mom, posted my completion on
Facebook and then fell asleep with a light heart. The next day, I met Glenn
Tremmi and he offered me a ride to Miami. As we waited for the passing traffic
before turning left out of the parking lot, I looked back toward the stone and
seize the moment with a smile.
On January 15th of 2017 at 10:54pm, I completed my 1,082-mile journey and established the Fastest Known Time for the Florida National Scenic Trail in a time of 26 days, 8 hours and 54 minutes.
That is an average of 41.03 miles per day for 26.37 days.
In the twenty-two months leading up to that moment, I had collectively walked five thousand miles on the Florida Trail in pursuit of my dream. I had completed three continuous thru-hikes, one nearly complete calendar year thru-hike, and an additional one thousand miles.
Interesting fact: I started my first speed record attempt on
January 15th of 2016 and finished my third speed record attempt and set the Fastest Known Time for the Florida Trail on January 15th of 2017... funny how the Lord works.
My mother has a saying that she has repeated to us boys all
of our lives, “Find that thing you love to do and do it. And while along your
path, remember that everything you need is within your grasp.” As I write this,
I now understand why Rich was so persistent when it came to the Florida Trail… it
was everything I needed and was within my grasp. By the end of my journey, the
Florida Trail became far more to me than just a trail… it became my testimony
on how to beat life through faith and positive action. I believe Jennifer Pharr
Davis summed it up perfectly when she said, “My message is not to encourage people
to get out and hike, my message is to encourage people to follow their dreams.”
And that’s what it’s all about, chasing down that thing that gives you life…
whatever it may be. And along your road, there will be failures, and setbacks,
and times when you feel that you’ll never make it… go all the way. There is no
other feeling like it. You will be alone with God and the nights will flame
with fire… do it… do it… do it… go all the way… all… the way.
Dedicated to my loving family and friends.
